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WAWONA
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October 2, 2010Galen Clark (1814 - 1910)Today I gave the following speech outside at the Pioneer History Center in Wawona. I felt it important to stress the role of Galen Clark, whose fundamental importance to the history of our National Parks is so routinely underreported, perhaps, ironically, because of his own humility. My thanks to the Yosemite Conservancy for
inviting me to speak today at our 35th annual Fall
Gathering – and, yes, it’s the first Fall Gathering under our
new name. I hope you’ve enjoyed the music – any of you who have
ever sung around a Yosemite campfire have, perhaps unknowingly,
participated in what may be the oldest cultural activity in
Yosemite. I’d guess that people have been singing and dancing
around campfires here for several thousand years, so let’s keep
that tradition alive! What do you say! No, I’m not going to lead a
sing along just now. So -- we’re at a crossing, here. See,
it’s always been easier to cross the river here because it’s nice and flat and shallow – animals naturally
had figured this out a long time ago, and so had the first people
coming through here some thousands of years ago. So in the late
1800s they called this area a “crossing” – the South Fork
Crossing. 155 summers ago – on the far bank of the
South Fork – over there, you can almost see ‘em – a dozen or
so scruffy looking miners on horseback, kicking up dust as they come
down the bank to cross the river – here they come. They just had
breakfast and they’re about to make history as one of the first
tourist parties to visit Yosemite – you can smell ‘em as they
ride by. As tourists,
these guys represent the seed of Yosemite’s first human threat,
but then the guy who just cooked their breakfast represents one of
the first seed of Yosemite’s protectors. So here goes our parade of miners – these
three brothers going by will start Yosemite’s first commercial
tourist enterprise the next year, 1856, by building a
toll-horse-trail from Mariposa to Yosemite, right through our
crossing here. Cost four bucks a horse to use their trail. Bringing up the rear is our cook with a
couple pack animals – his name’s Galen Clark – his job is to
cook and clean up after all these guys . . . but he’s not thinking
about that too much. See, Galen’s at the bottom rung of the labor
market, and on top of that he has serious health issues – his
doctor says he’s got about six months to live – so Galen’s
looking around here and thinking: “I’m 41 years old. Why don’t
I just quit my crummy job, grab my rifle and fishing pole and live
up here and die happy.” Well that’s about what he did – except
that he continually failed to die for 55 consecutive years after
that. He was an interesting guy – they say around here in the old
days that he didn’t wear
shoes – said it was for his health. I don’t know. But this
camp cook is why we’re all here, at this place. Clark and some
others, having seen the gold rush and the mess it’d made of
things, thought it’d be nice to keep people from wrecking the Big
Trees and Yosemite Valley, so they pushed the idea through Congress
– and here we are. It all started right here at the South Fork
Crossing, making this the single best place for the Yosemite
Conservancy Fall Gathering. Clark said he’d built his first cabin
in April, 1857 in front of what’s now the Wawona Hotel dining
room. Since his cabin was right by that toll-horse-trail, Clark soon
found himself catering to Yosemite tourists. The Wawona Hotel is the
descendant of Clark’s little cabin, and the bridge over there is
descended from Clark’s first bridge. The Yosemite Conservancy is
descended from a group that helped preserve that bridge – The
Yosemite Fund. The wagon shed just the other side of the bridge once
housed another ancestor of the Conservancy – the Yosemite
Association. While the bridge and the crossing make an
appropriate setting for us, the Wawona Fountain nicely symbolizes
the convergence of all our support and effort, gathering it all
together and raining it all over Yosemite. Like the Wawona fountain.
Okay, well, the fountain’s not doing that just yet – we have to
finish restoring it. Then it’ll do it. That fountain’s really reality imitating
art, you know. Maybe you do know -- when Thomas Hill did a painting
of the hotel in 1885, he thought there ought to be a fountain so he
painted one in. They distributed thousands of copies of that
painting in a major Yosemite guide book, so everybody came here and
said “Well, where’s the fountain,” and so in 1889 they relented and
put one in. It was replaced in 1918, and for the next 90 years
it’s been a focal point – yeah, especially last year when they
had to wrap the fountain in tarps to keep it from completely falling
apart. I just explained to people that it was an art installation by
Christo. I hear that we’ll also be restoring the fountain in front
of Hill’s Studio. Not only is the Conservancy working to
restore these fountains, last year we helped with the creation of
that great exhibit in Hill’s Studio – I volunteered on the
committee and got to see up close the wonderful teamwork that goes into these sorts of projects. And your donations
are also supporting restoration of Clark’s Meadow out there –
it’s called the Wawona Meadow, now, but an old map called it
Clark’s Meadow. And these historic structures all around you are
preserved in part by your donations. So here we all are, a team,
a family, protecting Yosemite for
ourselves and from ourselves, for the
future and from the
future, just like our ancestor Galen Clark did, starting in his
little cabin – right here
– where he both catered to
tourists and protected Yosemite from
them. March 24th marked the 100th anniversary
of the death of Galen Clark at the age of 96. It is my belief that the National Parks
started here, with Galen
Clark, alone by his campfire, ruminating over how to protect those
Big Trees, and Yosemite. So really, we
are on hallowed ground. Maybe that’s why Galen Clark didn’t
wear shoes.
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